Bracken

A flood damaged car is not something you want to buy. Floods can cause a lot of damages to cars. You can’t just wash away the water and everything will be back to normal. Flood damage is very expensive and it will cost you even more if you don’t get it fixed in time.

Here we will be providing some information about what flooding does to cars, why buying one of these cars is not a good idea, and what can happen if they are not fixed in time.  It’s good to look out for the tell tale signs if you are buying a used car.

Freak weather conditions, global warming and storms can lead to floods and where there are floods there are damaged cars. These used cars are generally known in the business as “flood cars.”
Now I know what you are thinking, “I don’t live in an area prone to floods, so I am not at risk of unknowingly purchasing one of these flood cars.” Sorry, but you are dead wrong…actually the farther away you live from the hurricane damage, the greater you are at risk for being scammed into buying one of these cars.
Why are you more at risk? Think about it. Local residents will be much more on the ball about flood damaged cars. Away from the coast or big rivers, there may be less knowledge though. The scam artists behind these flood cars know this. This issue is huge and will hurt many people who make the mistake and purchase one of these vehicles.  Even 4×4 vehicles can be affected even though they tend to be a bit more protected from floods due to the higher engine.

What is the big deal about a car that got water inside it if it seems to run just fine? The engine itself might be fine, and long term engine damage might not have occurred, but there are many other components of the vehicle that can seem to be working normally now, but can deteriorate in the near future.
Electrical components and wiring are usually affected most. There is a ton of complex wiring under the hood, in the dashboard, and under the carpeting of the vehicle. Water gets inside the vehicle from underneath from holes in the frame and body and around the door openings. If the carpet gets wet, so does the vast network of wiring under the carpet. The carpet can easily be replaced, but the wiring under the vehicle is usually too complex and therefore too expensive to replace, so new carpet is laid on top of them, concealing potential damage.

So what if the wires get wet?  Rust is what will cause the problem. These wires will now slowly begin to break down and rust will form on any part of the wire that is not protected. When the electricity traveling inside these wires makes contact with this rust, resistivity will increase and the electricity will stop traveling. Whatever component the electricity was traveling to, a fuel pump for instance, will soon stop working. Finding the trouble spot in the miles of wire is not an easy task. The carpets and seat will probably have to be removed and hours of diagnostic time will probably be accumulated as the mechanic tries to find the trouble spot.

In most cars, the onboard computer system is located in the lower part of the passenger dashboard area, just inches above the carpeting. Some Japanese vehicles have the computer located under the passenger seat, on top of the carpet. If the computer system gets wet, not only will it need to be replaced, but it can damage many other electrical components as well.

Transmissions are another big ticket item that can be affected by water and not show symptoms for some time. When moisture enters the transmission, the normally light pink fluid becomes a light white/pinkish frothy mix, like a strawberry milkshake. The entire workings of the transmission are extremely complex and full of wires, sensors, and lots of rubber seals and O-rings. The water will cause the rubber parts to swell and leak, and the sensors and electrical components will soon succumb to rust and water damage as well.
So what can you do to protect yourself from buying a flooded time bomb?
1. Be cautious of every used car on the market.
2. Take your time inspecting and test driving. A good deal today is usually a good deal tomorrow too, so don’t succumb to pushy sales people.
3. Inspect under the driver and passenger seats for obvious signs of rust on the seat tracks and metal seat frame.
4. Look at the headliner (the fabric on the roof inside the car). Once wet, the glue that holds this fabric in place will begin to weaken, and the fabric will begin to fall down completely, or will fall in small sections that will look like bubbles.
5. Inspect the undercarriage and the exhaust system for signs of large scale rust. I would expect a small amount of rust as being normal; ask your mechanic if you have questions.
6. Use your nose. If the inside of the vehicle smells damp and moudy, or feels damp to your skin, you need to walk away.
7. Remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. This should be done anyway if you are inspecting a used car, but rust damage will really show itself on the brake components.
8. Inspect all under-hood fluids for water contamination. Oil and water will look like a chocolate milkshake, oil and transmission or power steering fluid will look like a strawberry milkshake.
9. Get the dealership or the seller to give you a written statement that to the best of their knowledge that the car has not been in a flood, and  the car was not involved in any type of insurance claim that might have resulted in the original owner selling the vehicle to their insurance company as a “total loss.”
10. Look in the boot under the carpeting and under the spare tyre. Water and rust will tend to puddle here since it is one of the lowest places of the vehicle. If you see standing water, or signs of rust in and around the spare tyre area it is probably a flood damaged vehicle and should be avoided.

Running a car can get expensive.   I’m always on the look out for ways to save time and money on the maintenance of my car.

One way to save time and money is by learning how to do minor repairs on your own. There are many auto repair videos available online that will teach you how to fix common faults in your car. Or you could sign up to a car maintenance course in the evenings or weekends.  Learning about your car is a good way to save money because you will be able to identify problems before they get expensive. You could set up your own home workshop in your garden or yard.

Take The Scare Out Of Auto Repair

1. How to choose a repair shop. What you should look for when choosing a repair shop
Ask for a recommendation from friends, family, and anyone else you really trust. If you have just moved to a new area maybe ask for recommendations on a local Facebook page.  Look for a repair shop before you need one, so you are not rushed at the last minute to find one.  Use the phone, shop around to compare prices and warranty policies on the repair to find your best deal.  If you have an Extended Warranty Contract and intend to use it present it to the garage to make sure it will be honoured before any work is started.

2. How To Find The Right Automotive Technician.
Look for shops that display various certifications of their technicians, like manufacturers or trade body certification seal. Certification indicates that some or all of the technicians meet a basic standard of knowledge and experience in a specific technical area, if the certification states the tech is a Master certified tech that means the tech has passed tests and meets the standard for all areas of repair.
Also make sure that the certifications are all current as the mechanics have to be re tested every few years to make sure they stay up to date with changing technology, but remember just because the shop is certified does not always guarantee good or honest work.  Make sure you ask the garage/mechanic if they have experience working on the make/model of your vehicle as some shops may not have the experience working on your import if the specialize in domestic cars and vice versa.

3. Unlocking the Mystery of Repair Charges
Before arranging to have any work done to your car, ask what the garage’s pricing policy is. Some garages or dealerships charge a flat rate for labour on vehicle repair. The rate is based on an independent or manufacturer’s estimate of the time required to complete a repair. Some firms will charge actual time the tech works on the vehicle. Most garages use the flat rate system and this is usually the best for the customer as there is no wiggle room for the tech to “make time” on a repair.
If you need an expensive repair or a complicated repair or if you question the required repair, consider getting a second opinion. Just think of it as going to a doctor for major surgery and you want to make sure the doctor is right.
Find out if there is a diagnostic charge if you decide to take the vehicle some where else for the repair. Many garages will charge you for diagnosis time if you have repairs done or not, most will deduct it from repair bill if work done at their garage.

Consider asking for a written estimate for larger repairs and the written estimate should include the following: it should state what is being repaired, the parts and parts cost needed and the labour cost for the repair. Make sure you get a signed copy before you leave the premises.

Make sure you know about parts that are to be repaired or replaced, parts are classified as:

• New-These parts are made to original manufacturer’s specification either by the vehicle manufacturer or and independent company. Prices will vary from original manufacturer equipment or an after market manufacturer and you should be informed of what is used or decided which you want replace on your vehicle.
• Remanufactured, rebuilt or reconditioned.-All three of these terms generally mean the same thing. It means the respective part has been restored to original working condition. Most of these parts will have standard warranty on them from 30 days to a lifetime depending or the part and the source of the part. Usually this includes just the part and not labour to replace it.
• Salvage-These are used parts taken from another vehicle without any alteration from vehicles in a salvage yard. These parts carry a 30 day guarantee depending on the part and salvage yard. Most electrical parts from a salvage yard is bought as is.

After the repair is completed make sure you get the completed repair order showing work done and parts replaced. It should list the repair , parts used, cost of parts and cost of labour. Make sure you check the odometer from when you brought the vehicle in and when you pick it up, there should not be any difference in the miles unless a road test was needed after the repair to make sure everything was working properly. Ask to see all the replaced parts, you are entitled to take them with you if you want.  The exception is that a part that was replaced and needs to have the old part returned as a core. The shop is charged a core charge for the old part until it is returned to parts store, if you want to take this part you can if you pay the core charge. Sometimes these are very high depending on the part as they are sent back to a rebuilder to be reconditioned, large parts (transmissions, engines etc.) and electrical parts are most expensive.

Replacement car parts are replacements for a car that is being repaired or replaced. They are often made from cheaper materials and have a lower quality than original parts. They can be used to replace a broken part, or to replace a whole vehicle in case of an accident or disaster. Replacement car parts can be found in auto shops, auto supply stores, online retailers, and even the manufacturer’s website. Some replacement car parts have warranties that guarantee their quality while others do not have any warranty at all because they are considered cheaper alternatives to original vehicle components.

It is obvious that each different make and model of vehicle has different parts required. Each different vehicle has varying features, unique performance components and packaged characteristics to be addressed in terms of replacement parts, or in terms of custom and/or high performance offerings from the after-market parts industries. It is rare to find a line of vehicles that utilize the cookie cutter method of Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM) parts, that is, a one-part-fits-all type of approach. This was how the automotive industry started out, but it hasn’t been seen for nearly a Century. Variations are not just common for parts, but for entire systems.

In today’s market a case can be made for a movement toward standardizing of auto parts across the board. Many new items are engineered from the ground up, and it is expensive to do so. Every new part requires an endless list of research and development, market research, engineering, testing, integration, purchasing, stocking, advertising, support, manufacturing, distribution, accounting and much more. This turns a giant economic wheel in almost every industry, and trickles down opportunity for many smaller businesses. Recently there has been a lot of talk about the need to reduce costs and deliver quality in the same breath. This can almost assuredly be accomplished, but the only way it can be is through standardization.

This is not to say; reduce the quality, but it is to say; reduce the cost of producing quality. The reality of today’s automotive and after-market parts industries, is fairly clear as most see it; price vs. quality. This is not always true for everything the consumer has to make a decision about, but it is true for most. True after-market products are really copies of the originals. The problem is though, they are not like the original parts. They may look like true manufacturer’s auto parts, especially in the obvious places where the after-market manufacturer knows the consumer will look. Automotive replacement parts, whether OEM or budget priced knockoffs, where quality and performance is concerned, you pretty much get what you pay for.  Not all fan belts are equal.

Custom made and high performance parts have the reputation of delivering what they say they will, at a price. This creates even more confusion for the consumer. They see mostly higher pricing (not all) with high performance and custom vehicle parts, and ask themselves: is this far and away, above and beyond what I really need? The consumer may then convince himself, usually with the aid of a salesperson, that the budget knockoff part is good enough, or these are all really the same part, they will do the same job, they are the same quality. So the consumer may end up with an after-market part on his vehicle that does more damage to related vehicle systems, or simply doesn’t perform or has very limited durability. There is evidence that modern vehicle parts manufacturers and for that matter, vehicle manufacturers themselves will continue the trend toward standardize, reduce and reuse in the future.
Many internal components of Toyota made automatic transmissions are reused in new vehicles. Daimler-Chrysler has been noted of late for recycling existing equipment into new and updated processes. GM and Ford have also demonstrated the will to start a carry-over of standardization program, in which much of the component parts will be identical. The idea is to “engineer” around existing proven components.  Other car firms, like Audi, recommend OEM parts(Original Equipment Manufacturer).

Variation will eventually dwindle and ultimately the cost of producing quality will as well. A good number of internal components have been subjected to a standardizing platform. Some components that the consumer can actually see and touch have been standardized as well in recent late model designs.
What has all this got to do with replacement parts for your 1978 Buick? Nothing whatsoever. But what it does have to do with is a future where automotive parts will be of high quality, and will be inexpensive. You can’t find after-market parts for your 2006 Infiniti. There is a reason for that. There’s no market for it.

You can only get parts for it from the dealer right now. Vehicles under warranty will not have a need for replacement parts until that warranty is over.
Someday, in the not too distant future, you will be able to buy custom and high performance quality at after-market pricing. That day, however, is not today. You must be concerned with value-added automotive parts in the sense that quality, in general, and quality and proven performance name brands come with an initially higher price tag than others. Realizing that those “others” will end up costing you more in the long run in irreversible damage to your vehicle and peace of mind, be mindful of your decisions about quality, and what its true value is.

When you are buying a car it’s worth considering your options for car parts for future repairs.  Some luxury brands have expensive parts and non-branded parts aren’t an option.  If you are on a tight budget both now and in the future, say when buying a first car, it’s worth bearing in mind the cost of parts.